Slea Head Drive in Dingle on a Rainy Day

I drove Slea Head Drive in Dingle on a very stormy day on the Dingle Peninsula. At one point, the winds were so strong I thought they would rip my rental car’s door off, so I stayed in the car and tried to take photos through the windshield between wiper swipes!

Even though I didn’t stop as much as I would have on a sunny day, this 38km (24-mile) loop drive still took me 6 hours to complete! I can’t even imagine how long it would take if I could get out and walk along the beaches!

Even though my time outdoors was limited on this drive, it was still incredibly enjoyable, and I still got to visit sites like Dunquin Pier, The Great Blasket Center, and the Beehive Huts, among many others.

After driving the entire Slea Head loop in some seriously unpleasant weather, I learned that not every stop is worth getting soaked for. Some places were still spectacular from the car, while others were much better saved for a sunny day.

Here’s how I’d plan the drive if the forecast isn’t looking promising, including which stops I’d prioritize, which I’d skip, and when I’d recommend waiting for better weather.

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Table of Contents

Is Slea Head Worth Driving in Bad Weather?

Slea Head Drive in bad weather could be dangerous. Especially if you’re not used to driving windy, narrow roads on the edge of a cliff. Also, visibility will be poor, so you won’t get the best views and will have to skip the beaches!

Double-check the weather forecast a few days before you arrive in Dingle so you can try to plan this scenic loop for the best weather day.

Here’s what I would recommend depending on the forecast:

If it’s misty or lightly raining: I would still do this drive, and might even add a beach walk if I have a rain jacket.

If it’s windy and raining: Check the wind gusts before setting out. I don’t mind driving in a bit of wind, but I really don’t enjoy getting out of the car when it’s blowing a gale! Be especially careful when opening your car door, and don’t attempt the drive if the conditions make you uncomfortable or unsafe.
If it’s pouring: If the weather forecast calls for downpours all day, then skip it. It’s really not worth it.
If the weather improves: If the weather improves in the afternoon and you have at least four hours of daylight left, you can still enjoy a shorter drive. You won’t have time for every stop, so prioritize the Beehive Huts, Dunquin Pier, the Great Blasket Centre, and whichever beach has the best conditions.

If you’re at all unsure due to the weather, skip it. I want you to feel confident on this drive, and if the rain makes you nervous, wait for a better day. Or you could always book a guided day tour and let the tour guide handle the driving!

Dark interior of car looking out passenger window with a view of the sea and an island in the distance on a rainy day.

What to Know Before Driving Slea Head

The Slea Head Drive is a scenic loop drive that starts and ends in Dingle Town. The route includes dramatic views of the Blasket Islands, ancient archaeological sites, and, of course, narrow, winding roads with only a stone wall between you and the Atlantic.

Here are a few things I wish I knew before heading out on the Slea Head drive.

Drive Clockwise

The Slea Head route should be driven in a clockwise direction. This means starting in Dingle Town, driving towards Ventry Beach and continuing that way. Locals can drive both ways, but tourists need to follow the one-way direction.

This is especially important for the section from the last Beehive Hut to Dunquin Pier, as it is the narrowest and most winding part.

I got stuck behind a tour bus near the White Cross because a car was going the opposite direction. That car had to reverse the winding road to a pull-out spot. It took about 20 minutes for them to figure it out; don’t be that person.

Three cars on a narrow road with a rocky wall on one side and a short stone wall on the other with a view of the sea.

Take it Slow on the Narrow Roads

The roads are windy and narrow, so take your time. If there are cars behind you, don’t worry; there are places to pull off the road and let them pass. Just don’t park in those spots so they can continue to be used for passing. Parking areas are available at all the main sites.

Bring Cash for Entrance Fees

Bring small bills, as most sites have an entrance fee, which I didn’t realize, and I’m thankful I had cash! Most sites require €4-5 entrance fees. I think some had credit card payment options, but having cash on hand is useful on this route.

Bring Snacks (But Know Where to Find Cafes)

Before I started the drive, I stopped at the grocery store for a sandwich and snacks. I’m someone who needs three square meals a day, plus snacks, and I wasn’t sure about the food situation along the way.

But there were actually quite a few cafes along the way. There’s one at Dunbeg Fort, the Great Blasket Center, and the social media famous: Cafe na Tra. In addition to eating all of my snacks, I ended up getting a hot chocolate at Dunbeg Fort cafe, and soup at the Great Blasket Center.

Regrettably, I passed Cafe na Tra without realizing it, and it was too late to go back. But I’m confident I’ll be back in Dingle soon, so it’s firmly on the list for the next trip.

Woman wearing all black rain gear stands drinking hot chocolate from a white cup in front of a stone fort next to the sea on a stormy day.

Fill Up Your Gas Tank before Leaving Dingle

There is a gas station as you leave Dingle Town. Make sure your tank is full as it’s the only one for the remainder of the drive.

How Long Does the Slea Head Drive Take?

I recommend blocking out at least half a day for the Slea Head Drive. Without stops, the drive would take 1 hour, but I promise you’ll want to stop.

It took me 6 hours to drive the route in bad weather. If you read my Ring of Kerry itinerary, you know that I love to stop at every overlook and walk at every beach possible. So for the Slea Head Drive, here’s where I stopped and how long I spent at each location.

Holden Leather Goods: 1 hour
Ventry Beach: 30 minutes
Dunbeg Fort: 20 minutes
Cashel Murphy: 20 minutes
Beehive Huts: 20 minutes
Dunquin Pier: 30 minutes
Great Blasket Center: 1 hour
Gallarus Oratory: 30 minutes
Kilmalkedar Church: 10 minutes

The time spent is almost 5 hours, so with drive time in between each location and an unfortunate traffic jam, that’s about 6 hours.

After Ventry Beach, I did not get out to walk any of the other beaches on the route, as the wind made the rain feel like pebbles hitting my face! If the weather had been agreeable, beach walks would’ve added more time to this day.

I chose to visit Brandon Creek (20 minutes) the following day. It’s easy to drive directly there from Dingle Town.

Blue sign with yellow writing reads hold a baby lamb next to a narrow windy road surrounded by green fields and the sea in the distance.

Two white lambs stand next to an iron fence in a the mud on a rainy day.

Slea Head Drive Stops in Route Order

Dingle Town

Slea Head Drive starts and ends in Dingle Town. I recommend staying in Dingle Town as your base because, aside from Slea Head Drive, it’s worth spending at least one day in Dingle.

The quality of shopping surprised me; you’ll definitely find unique souvenirs here, and the food and pubs are excellent.

Since you’ll start and end your day in Dingle, you need to know where to eat breakfast, dinner, and have a pint at the end of the drive.

Blue and red buildings on Dingle's waterfront street in front of green hills.

On the day of your drive, I recommend a quick breakfast you can take with you, so go to Piccolo Cafe or Bean In for a good matcha (or coffee) and sausage roll. I ate at both during my stay, and they’re both great. Just pick whichever one has a shorter line so you can get on the road.

When you get back from the drive, I highly recommend dinner at the Fish Box. They’re known for their fish and chips (which I don’t like in general), but they have a wide selection of seafood options if you also don’t like them.

If you want to cap off your day with a drink, my favorite pub was Kennedy’s. It’s a super cozy vibe, and they also make really good cocktails.

Blue plate filled with broccoli, fish, and potatoes sit on a table with drinks next to a window at Fish Box in Dingle, Ireland.

A book sits open next to a cocktail and a candle in a Dingle gin bottle with flowers on a dark table in Kennedy's Pub.

Holden Leathergoods

The night before I drove Slea Head, I used Google Maps to plot my route over a pint at Foxy John’s Pub. That’s how I found Holden Leathergoods. The reviews said it was a beautiful leather shop just a few minutes off of Slea Head Drive, so I had to check it out.

You’ll see signs for it as you leave Dingle, and it’s found at the end of a very narrow, tree-covered road. As you walk in, the smell of leather takes over your senses.

Short stone shop with green accents and a sign that says Holden Leathergoods with a bench under it next to the entrance.

The shop is filled with belts, purses, wallets, keychains, and even cord organizers in a variety of gorgeous leather colors. Bright red, royal blue, a gorgeous purple, and forest green sit alongside the traditional browns and blacks. It’s a feast for all senses.

Especially when the owner hands you a cup of tea or coffee as a reward for the journey to the shop.

Behind a window, you’ll see people working on various leather projects. Everything in the room is made right there in Dingle. It’s stunning.

I drooled over a certain purse. In fact, I’m still thinking about it, but that level of quality comes with a price tag outside my current budget. Instead, I bought three belts that I’m sure will last me the rest of my life: a brown, black, and burgundy for a little fun!

You can visit this shop without doing the rest of Slea Head Drive if you’d like.

Display table filled with purple leather bags and various other leather accessories. In the background is another display of black leather bags.

Brown leather bag sits on a stool framed by a window with other leather bags and accessories on a table below it.

Ventry Beach

The next stop, and the first official stop on Slea Head Drive, is Ventry Beach. This beautiful white-sand beach has a cute toy-sharing box next to the parking lot.

I walked part of the beach, but it was too windy, and the threat of rain was out at sea, so I didn’t make it all the way around.

I still think it’s worth stopping on a stormy day as long as it’s not a downpour. The wind adds the WILD in Wild Atlantic Way.

Woman wearing all black and a green backpack stands on a white sand beach in front of a stormy day on a rainy day.

Blue toy box filled with a variety of sand toys in front of green sea grass.

Dunbeg Fort

I saw a sign for Dunbeg Fort, and not knowing anything about it, I pulled into the parking lot. The rain was really starting to come down, so I put on my waterproof pants over my leggings and crossed the street.

I paid for my ticket (€4.00) with the gentleman at the window, who said to go back across the street to the visitor center to watch the video first. So, I did.

I’m glad I did, because the short 12-minute video gave a good description of not just the fort but the Beehive Huts and other sites along the route.

Now, Dunbeg Fort itself is not worth visiting in the rain. You can’t go in it, just around; it’s all blocked off. It just looks like stones coming out of the grass. There are better forts to brave the elements for nearby.

So pay for the educational video, get a hot chocolate from the cafe, and keep it moving!

Cozy room with a bench and stone walls with various artifacts face a video at Dunbeg Fort.

Cashel Murphy

Cashel Murphy is definitely worth the stop to see this small circular complex thought to have been built around the same time as Newgrange. The complex was built with dry stone walls, had beehive huts, and even underground storage.

According to the ticket taker, Cashel Murphy is lined up with Orion’s Belt, and when the Equinox occurs, the light flows into the center, similar to Newgrange. He also stated that it was likely a place for Druid rituals.

I loved standing in the center of the stone circle, looking out to see. The wind sounded like cars driving by, a sound the ancient Druids would never know. I’d have liked to spend more time here, but the wind made me crave the warmth of my car!

It costs €4.00 to enter.

Short stone walls form a circle with a very narrow doorway. There is no roof and you can see the sea in the distance.

Beehive Huts (Hold a Baby Lamb)

There are multiple options to visit the Beehive Huts. The first you’ll see are the Fahan Beehive Huts.

I chose the one near the sign that says “hold a baby lamb”. This is the last Beehive Hut location on the drive.

I had zero interest in holding a baby lamb, but I did want to see the huts. Until I’d seen replicas at the Kerry Cliffs, I truly thought that the ancient Irish were beekeepers. But I was embarrassingly wrong. The Beehive Huts were homes. This is why travel is important, folks!

I walked into one of them up the hill from the farm to see how well it would protect from the intense winds, and the answer is: not well.

Beehive hut structure made out of stones with a wooden gate at the entrance.

Dark room with a wooden gate at the entrance with a view of the sea.

White Cross

The White Cross is a large white crucifixion that acts as a memorial for fishermen and travelers.

There is a small pullout here and an amazing view of Great Blasket Island. The White Cross also marks the start of the very narrow section of road, so take it slow.

I got stuck behind a traffic jam here, and while I enjoyed the view of the Blasket Islands, it felt like the strong wind would blow my little car into the Atlantic. It’s not protected from the elements at all, so use caution on a windy day!

I was grateful when the cars ahead of me figured out how to get through!

White crucifix with other figures at the base in front of a rock wall on Slea Head Drive in Dingle, Irelamd.

Coumeenoole Beach and Dunmore Head Overlook

Since it was stormy, I didn’t go for a walk here as I’d planned. Instead, I watched from the car as sea spray blew up over the cliffs, and my car rocked in the wind. I imagine this beautiful beach gets very busy in the summer months!

The walk to Dunmore Head also starts from this beach’s parking lot.

View of a stormy sea as it meets a white sand beach and green cliffs with the Wild Atlantic Way sign in the front.

Dunquin Pier

A visit to the Dunquin Pier has been on my Ireland bucket list for years! It’s an iconic view: a windy path leads to a pier with a few sea rocks, and out to sea are the Great Blasket Islands. If you’re a photographer, you’ll want to visit this location.

This pier is where the islanders would row to when they visited the mainland. Literally, row. You can see the boats they used to make the crossing in the museum!

Today, no one lives on the island full-time, but during the summer months, visitor ferries depart from here (or from the pier in Dingle Town).

I’d planned to visit the Blasket Islands during my trip, but I’m sure you can guess it was canceled due to weather.

Windy path leads down to the sea with two triangle sea rocks and a view out to the Great Blasket Islands on a stormy day on the Dingle Peninsula.

Great Blasket Centre

The Great Blasket Centre is an absolute must-visit, no matter the weather. This beautiful visitor center and museum teaches about life on the remote Blasket Islands. It shares the lives of its residents and their lasting impact. Plus, the building is just beautiful!

It costs €5.00 to enter; there is a cafe, a bookshop, and toilets.

Hallway in the Great Blasket Center that has images of people who lived on the Great Blasket Islands with descriptions on the opposite wall.

Clogher Strand Overlook

Clogher Strand is another beautiful beach worth visiting on a good day. With the weather I had, I enjoyed the view as I continued driving on to Gallarus Oratory.

Gallarus Oratory

The Gallarus Oratory is an 11-12th century church that hasn’t leaked since it was built! It’s built using the dry stone method, meaning no mortar was used, just the careful placement of stones.

It’s built in an inverted boat shape, a nod to St. Brendan the Navigator, who sailed to America for 7 years and is the patron saint of sailors.

It’s a must-visit for ancient sites. A video also accompanies the church and shares more about the significance of St. Brendan.

There is a €4.00 entrance fee.

Woman wearing all black and smiling big at the camera as the wind blows her hood up stands in front of the Gallarus Oratory, a stone church in the shape of an inverted boat.

Kilmalkedar Church / Cill Maoilchéadair

Kilmalkedar Church is also associated with St. Brendan the Navigator, whose house is nearby. Also built in the 12th century, it has more Romanesque influence compared to the Gallarus Oratory.

An Ogham Stone here likely dates to the 6th or 7th century, showing this area was important for centuries.

It’s a quick stop on your way back to Dingle.

Headstones and gravesites with an old stone church in the background with green hills in the distance.

Stone church, without a roof and a small old cross at a point at the top.

Brandon Creek

I decided to finish my day on the Slea Head Drive at Kilmalkedar Church. I was windblown and tired from driving, so I called it a day instead of continuing on to Brandon Creek.

However, the following day I woke up to a still windy, but sunny day! I decided to drive directly to Brandon Creek from Dingle Town (you can drive both directions in this section of Slea Head Drive).

This is a beautiful corner of the Dingle Peninsula drive. A creek flows into the Atlantic Ocean here and is said to be where St. Brendan departed for North America.

It’s worth a visit on a sunny day, but I am glad I skipped it in the rain.

Creek with rushing water surrounded by green hills on a blue sky day with a few white clouds in the sky.

Blue water flows between two green, rocky cliffs on a blue sky day with white puffy clouds.

Where to Stay in Dingle for the Slea Head Drive

Dingle is the perfect place to base yourself for the Slea Head Drive. You’ll find a range of options, from B&Bs to traditional hotels.

I recommend staying in Dingle Town so you’re close to pubs, restaurants, and shops, but more remote options are also available.

Ashe’s Seafood Restaurant: Where I Stayed in Dingle

Above Ashe’s Seafood Restaurant are a few hotel rooms. I stayed here for two nights and loved the location, room size, and cozy bed. I had a street-facing room, so it was a bit noisy from the pubs at night, but they provided earplugs, which helped!

The second night, I realized a window was open, which is why it was so loud the first night. After closing the window, I didn’t hear any street noise!

The room doesn’t include breakfast, but there is a small fridge in the room with waters and tea supplies. The other downside is there is no reception, aside from the folks in the restaurant downstairs.

I’m not totally opposed to that set up, but I do like to have a reception available just in case I need something.

Other than that it was a comfortable stay and I felt perfectly safe. I’d recommend Ashe’s if you want to stay right in the heart of Dingle, within walking distance of the restaurants and pubs, and don’t mind not having a traditional hotel reception.

See current prices and availability at Ashe’s in Dingle.

Chair with bag on it and boots underneath it sits in front of a window that looks out to a blue shop and a street in Dingle, Ireland.

View of the edge of a bed out of a window with a blue and white shop out on the street as the sun streams in the window.

Base Dingle: Where I’ll Stay Next Time in Dingle

For some reason, this hip-looking hotel did not appear in my search results for this trip.

I found Base Dingle on my first morning when I parked next to it for breakfast at Piccolo on my way out to Slea Head Drive. At first I thought it was a co-working space, but it’s actually a family run hotel.

It’s in an excellent location with easier parking than Ashe’s. The rooms look bright and beautiful, and they offer grab-and-go breakfast (for an additional charge). Perfect for a quick start to an adventurous day!

While I haven’t stayed here myself, so I can’t vouch for the comfort of the rooms or noise level, this would be my pick if you want a modern, centrally located place to stay with the convenience of grab-and-go breakfast before heading out to explore.

See current prices and availability at Base Dingle.

Is Slea Head Drive Worth It in Bad Weather?

Absolutely! Even though I didn’t get to enjoy all the beaches and viewpoints the way I would have on a sunny day, I still loved driving Slea Head. There’s something pretty magical about seeing the ancient sites, dramatic coastline, and Blasket Islands surrounded by mist.

That said, I’d check the forecast before setting out and be realistic about what the weather will allow. Light rain and mist don’t have to ruin your day, but if it’s pouring or the wind is making driving difficult, it’s worth waiting for conditions to improve.

You don’t need to visit every stop to enjoy this drive, and some places are much better saved for a sunnier day!

If you’re planning a bigger road trip through County Kerry, I’d also recommend giving yourself enough time to explore Dingle and the surrounding peninsula. It’s one of those places where you’ll want to slow down and make a few extra stops along the way.

White bus drives at the edge of a windy road on a cliff with the Great Blasket Islands in the distance and a very stormy sea on a windy day on the Slea Head Drive in Dingle.

Planning a Kerry Road Trip?

I’ve put together a Google Map with all the stops along Slea Head Drive and the Ring of Kerry, so you can see where everything is and plan your own route without spending hours plugging locations into Google Maps.

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I’ve plotted the stops along Slea Head Drive and the Ring of Kerry so you can see where everything is and plan your route with ease.