My Least Favorite Activity in Rome: Riding the Appian Way

One of my least favorite things that I did during my month in Rome was rent a bike and ride the Appian Way. I’d seen multiple TikTok videos from tourists in Rome saying that riding the Appian Way was their favorite thing they did during their time in the Eternal City. Then, a classmate in my adult study abroad program echoed their sentiment after she did it during one of our free days.

As I approached my first full weekend in Rome, I decided to add riding the Appian Way to my bucket list. It appeared to be a nice way to take a break from the crowded city and see a unique part of Rome. Plus, the Appian Way, built in 312 AD, was one of the main roads leading to Rome for centuries! How cool, right!?

Renting a Bike to Ride the Appian Way

On Sunday morning, I got up, had breakfast, and put on some leggings and a button-down shirt. I got to the bus stop around 10:00 am, the sun was already heating up the city. I got off at the Domine Quo Vadis bus stop, near the renowned Porta San Sebastiano, the best-preserved gate of Rome’s Aurelian walls. 

But it was also near a bike rental shop and the Appian Way Visitor Center. The shop was completely sold out of rental bikes for the day. 

Disheartened, this was off to a rocky start. I waited for the next bus to take me to the Almone bus stop, from where I would walk to the Appia Antica Café. In addition to the cafe, there was another bike shop. Thankfully, there was still a bike available. E-bikes were sold out, but I was able to rent a mountain bike for 3 hours. 

The shop assistant had me scan a QR code, which took me to a Google Map that had the route I would take down the ancient Appian Way and to the Parco degli Acquedotti (The Park of the Aqueducts). 

I stopped at the Appia Antica Café for a hot chocolate and croissant before taking off on the historic Via Appia Antica.

Bumbling Along the Appian Way

And by taking off, I mean, bumbling down an ancient road filled with large cobblestone slabs, smaller cobblestones similar to those in the center of Rome, interspersed around a few potholes. 

I was fearful I’d go over the handlebars if I went any faster than 5mph. Off to the side of the main road were dirt paths, but these were narrow and just as bumpy from tree roots. It really was like mountain biking, which I don’t enjoy. 

I just knew my ass would be sore for days after this.

About 10 minutes in, I also realized that the brakes on the bike weren’t that functional so if I needed to stop quickly to avoid one of the other many cyclists or pedestrians on the road, I actually couldn’t and would probably crash right into them. Cool, cool, cool.

Nevertheless, I continued on. I tried to change my attitude using positive mental talk. Many people loved this, and I probably will too once I get into the groove.

The historic Appian Way is actually very straightforward, literally. It’s a straight road along which are catacombs (the famous catacombs of San Callisto) and ancient ruins, all of which were either closed or under reconstruction while I was there.

While bumbling along, I appreciated the quiet Roman countryside and marveled at the rich history of Rome. Here I am riding down one of Rome’s oldest roads that once would’ve taken days to navigate, yet I’m using my cell phone’s GPS and wishing I had access to one of the electric bicycles.

I rode until I almost reached the Ciampino airport before realizing I was supposed to make a turn somewhere to get to the Park of the Aqueducts.

The Google Map link lost the route at some point, probably while I was taking photos. I resynched and doubled back along the cobblestones. I passed the turn two more times before finally finding it, and I made my way along city streets, getting lost on the side of the road again. Ultimately, I found my way through parking lots before making it to the aqueducts.

Riding the Park of the Aqueducts

It was officially a scorcher, not a cloud in the sky.

As I entered the park, I took a left, following the Google Map, but as I reflect and look at the map of the park now, I should’ve gone right to ride along a much longer more intact section of the aqueducts.

This part of the ride, though, was quite nice. Happy to leave the bumpy ride courtesy of the ancient cobblestones of the Appian Way for the packed dirt roads of the park, I cruised past families enjoying a sunny day, people playing tennis, and past parts of the ancient Roman aqueducts in the distance that once supplied Rome with water. 

I found a bench under a shady tree to guzzle from my water bottle, eat a snack, and rest before continuing on. 

Somehow, even though at this point I was following the map closely, I found myself on a trail that got fairly close to an aqueduct. I was quite pleased by this, as in front of it were beautiful pink flowers that I enjoyed practicing my photography with. There wasn’t another soul around; all I heard was the flowing water of the creek below the aqueduct, bird song, and the click of my camera.

This was the quiet I had been craving after a few weeks of bustling city streets in Rome’s city center.

I decided to just continue down the same path, but the trail quickly became so overgrown that I had to get off and walk the bike because I couldn’t turn it around. I was grateful for the long pants and long-sleeved shirt, (a must on your Rome packing list) that were now also protecting me from the very scratchy and thorny plants in addition to the blazing sun.

Finally, I rejoined the main trail and passed a winery that was unfortunately closed, otherwise I would have really indulged to help ease the burn in my quads and pain in my ass. Although, as I sit here writing this I have Google Maps pulled up to try to find that winery, and it doesn’t show up. Maybe it was a mirage. I was so over it, I didn’t even take a photo of it for proof!

I rode through some quiet neighborhood streets before crossing a few busy intersections to make my way, finally, back to the Appia Antica Café.

The last section of the journey was on an asphalt road that had just enough incline that I decided to get off the bike and walk the remaining half mile.

Reflecting on My Day on the Appian Way

I arrived at the bike rental shop so sweaty, but not feeling accomplished for doing it. Feeling more frustrated than anything that I’d spent so much time and energy doing an activity that others said I’d love, but that I really didn’t enjoy. 

I kept thinking that I’d much rather have taken a day trip to the beach, something that I’d been craving for a few weeks now.

I ordered a sandwich and a beer at the cafe, and found a shady table to reflect on a day that I had high hopes for, but really, honestly, just kind of sucked. 

As I refueled, I realized that, yes, the aqueducts were beautiful, that is objectively true. Another objectively true aspect of the day was that it was actually really cool to ride on a street that ancient Romans once used. The aqueducts were also so beautiful in a lonely sort of way.

But if I were to do this again, and I’ve realized I would do this again, I would do it entirely differently. There are definitely better ways to see this unique side of Rome’s rich history without having to ride an uncomfortable bike with barely working brakes.

I would still take the bus to Appia Antica Café, but I would walk the Appian Way instead of riding a bike. Then I’d call an Uber to take me to the Park of the Aqueducts, where I would walk along the intact aspect of the aqueducts before hopping in another Uber to take me home. I would also do this in the late afternoon to avoid the heat of the day, but I also think the park would be stunning closer to sunset.

I’d also choose to do this activity when it wasn’t a scorching hot day. I truly believe that the biking aspect of it combined with the heat, made for a subpar experience. Even having an e-bike would’ve made the day more enjoyable and less of a workout.

The following weekend, a group of people had booked an e-bike tour of the Appian Way and asked if I wanted to go. I told them I’d already done it and that I was heading to the beach instead. I wished them a good bike ride.

Perhaps an even better way to do this activity in Rome is with a guided tour so you don’t have to worry about directions, and the knowledgeable guide can tell you more about the ancient monuments. Plus, having an electric bicycle would already be a better experience.

They came back raving about how fantastic it was. 

Should you add riding the Appian Way to your Rome bucket list? 

Sure, if it’s something that interests you. Alternatively, you can wander the Appian Way on a leisurely morning stroll and enjoy the ancient aqueducts with a sunset picnic. Or book an Ancient Appian Way bike tour so you don’t have to stress about whether or not a bike will be available or worry about getting lost. 

If this day taught me anything, it was not to trust everything I see on TikTok and that there is likely more than one way to do a bucket list activity. Make it work for you, and I’m sure you’ll have a better time than I.

Funnily enough, the following day, I met up with my travel writing class just on the other side of the Appian Way in Parco della Caffarella in the Caffarella Valley, which also plays a unique part in Rome’s history. We visited a sheep farm and indulged in the tranquil landscapes of ancient Rome. It confirmed to me that the bike riding was the problem from the previous day, because I thoroughly enjoyed walking around this green area, even in the heat.

So, I’ve made a promise to myself that the next time I go to Rome, and there ill be a next time, I will walk the Appian Way and the Park of the Aqueducts. For me, that sounds like the perfect way to step into this unique part of the ancient Roman Empire.

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